Amber Has Many Ambiguities ~ As Well As Odd Inclusions
Amber is one of the fascinating organic materials that is turned into some spectacular jewelry as well as some odd looking pieces. When you consider there are around a hundred fossil tree resins, it certainly adds to the confusion.
Another thing about amber, is that like diamonds and gold, the supply chain is not always ethical. Some of it is extracted using child labour, or in areas of extreme danger and conflicts. The 1990’s brought about a greater interest in amber following the movie Jurassic Park. There are now more concerns about the extraction, and export of amber, along with global efforts to set up guidelines for identification, and ethical supply chains.
The amber with the most scientific intrigue are the pieces that capture insects, flora and fauna, and especially full insects, like ants and spiders. The most common insect found in amber are flies. Who would have guessed it?
And even more likely, you will see bits and pieces of insects, like the legs, wings or partial bodies. When the insect gets caught in the resin, they struggle to get free. And then, if they remain trapped, they go through years and years of fossilization, so it is not like putting a fly in a jar. The insects can give information about extinct and unusual species, as well as timelines thought to go back as far as the dinosaur age.
But as with all things, in addition to unethical extraction and collection processes, there are also many fakes. Now that I have looked at and handled numerous types of vintage and antique amber jewelry, and especially in doing the macro photography, I have a better sense of what is real and what is fake. Some of the amber is truly incredible as it glows from deep within. You can see a tiny world captured in time, with many interesting organic inclusions. When photographed in sunlight it emanates a deep and captivating glow.
Today I was looking at an amber pendant necklace online that appears to have miniature daisy-like flowers inside. Although it is very pretty, and also very expensive, it seemed somewhat doubtful to me that a bouquet of daisies would be inside a three inch piece of amber. The claims are that it is certified authentic, and the seller is a member of the RJC, or the Responsible Jewellery Council.
The RJC was founded in 2005, and has members like Tiffany, Cartier and many other famous jewellery retailers. However when I looked at their website and membership prices, it was not clear to me who did the certification, or how the organization goes about the policing of certification to prevent fake pieces, or unethical supply chains. It appears that what is required, is to purchase a membership.
An article in the Guardian cast some doubt on the RJC organization, which reinforced some of what I was discerning when looking at the high ticket items. Although I cannot claim to know one way or another, it is certainly a buyer beware type of market.
The amber item that came to my attention first, with the arrangement of pretty flowers inside, came from a seller in Hong Kong. The pendant is priced around $25,000 US. Although I cannot divulge the entire listing as it could be a deterrent to their sale, and reputation. But I do think it is fair to ask the questions. The write up on the piece describes it as “Certified 187 carat natural amber”. It goes on to elaborate further. A copy and paste of the write-up states the following:
“This is a statement piece! Here is a super nice, large piece of certified natural Amber (187.18 cts). The key is that it is certified natural! A large percentage of Ambers for sale in the market are man made and not natural. The Amber is transparent to translucent with natural inclusions. The flowers in this large certified natural amber was carved by a master carver. It is absolutely spectacular. Super realistic!”
Now my question is, how can it be certified natural amber with fossilized inclusions that were carved by a master carver?! First it says a large percentage of amber on the market is manmade, not natural. Then it claims the flowers inside the amber are manmade. The ambiguity and contradiction flows from one sentence to the next. Yet, apparently this listing has passed several levels of scrutiny.
The other issue is that according to the International Gem Society amber is sold by gram, not by carat. Amber is very light and will float in salt water. The general ratio is that one gram is around five carats, but since carats are a measure of purity, it is difficult to assign it to amber.
I always thought the whole concept of finding natural amber was because it had inclusions trapped into the resin and fossilized “as is”. Otherwise how can it possibly be 100% certified natural amber, if what is inside it was made be a master carver? For twenty-five grand you also get a braided cord to go with it.
After looking at a few more very expensive necklaces on the same site, I looked at another necklace listed for a walloping $253,000.00 US. In this case the photography was not even professionally done, which is surprising given the price tag. This necklace was described as being 18K gold with diamonds, not in settings, but drilled nuggets, that were added to the chain of the necklace. It was accompanied with a notice of RJC certification.
The RJC certification was of interest to me, so I looked it up to see how they follow up on the certifications. I wanted to see if items are actually proven to be authentic, and validated by this organization. The idea of purchasing a membership, and then using the membership as a claim of certification for a $253,000 necklace, does not inspire confidence in what you are buying, unless there is a way of enforcing compliance with established standards. I have no idea one way or another about the value or authenticity of the pricey necklace, but it did make me curious, the same as the master carver inserting pretty flowers into a piece of “natural amber” also made me wonder.
The following article about the RJC will help expand our horizons on the topic:
https://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/responsible-jewellery-council-ethical-standards
Here is what the Atlantic said about the topic of amber:
I think from the time we are five or six years old, we will look at something in awe, and say – “But – Is it real?”
Now more than ever before, we are inundated with fakes; from fake news, to fake gems, fake art, and fake prophecies. You name it, out of whatever was invented, thought of, created or sold, chances are there are many fakes.
A few years ago, I went through a museum in Houston, Texas. They had transported artifacts and gold jewellery that had been stored in a vault in Western Asia, or Persia for thousands of years. It was a stunning showcase of intricately made gold jewellery and sophisticated art objects. One of the items was a large bronze bowl with carved fish swimming in a circle. It had an ingenious mechanical method built into it, to make the fish swim non-stop without having to wind it up or do anything to keep it going. The jewellery on display must have been worth a fortune, as some of the pieces were very large and elaborate.
In comparing some of the ancient, with more recent products, we certainly do not seem to be progressing that much. Perhaps the earth’s resources, and conflict laden areas have become too difficult to maintain, or pursue the opulence we once had.
It does seem that the workmanship of many antiques, and even vintage costume jewellery supersedes what is made today. Labour costs, resources, and reliability, or credibility of supply chains seems to be an increasingly complex hindrance. The earth’s natural resources have been tapped to the nth degree. Even to the extent many will opt for an illusory reproduction.
It takes us back in time, to our wide eyed childhood wonder and exclamations, “Is it real”? There is much to be learned about our natural world, and all the beauty that comes from organic materials. We end up with a blend of science and art.
Most of us think of amber as being honey coloured, but amber comes in many different colours depending on where it came from. It can be yellow, orange, red, green, brown, blue or black. Some examples of different colours:
https://www.quietwest.com/shop/jewelery/sterling-silver-earrings-featuring-garnet-baltic-amber-925/
https://www.quietwest.com/shop/jewelery/sterling-silver-amber-carnelian-baroque-pearl-necklace/
Another one of the expensive amber necklaces I looked at online today is made of huge butterscotch coloured rock-like shapes of amber. The design was something that looked like it would be a perfect addition to Wilma’s costume for a rerun of a Fred Flintstone cartoon. If he brought the necklace home as a gift for Wilma, I can just feature her and Pebbles exclaiming “Is it real?”
The following jewellery items in the Quiet West Collection contain amber. No spiders got caught in these pieces:
https://www.quietwest.com/shop/jewelery/antique-sterling-silver-natural-baltic-amber-drop-earrings/
https://www.quietwest.com/shop/jewelery/baltic-amber-pendant-in-a-silver-leaf-art-nouveau-setting/
https://www.quietwest.com/shop/jewelery/amber-heart-pendant-on-sterling-silver-chain/
https://www.quietwest.com/shop/jewelery/sterling-silver-baltic-amber-huge-ring/
https://www.quietwest.com/shop/jewelery/amber-sterling-silver-leaf-pendant/
https://www.quietwest.com/shop/jewelery/amber-and-turquoise-sterling-silver-earrings/
Faux amber? Below is a link to an an example of faux amber, because how could an elephant be caught in tree resin? It could be carved amber, so I jest. Regardless, there are some amber jewellery items that are very difficult to be sure of because they have the glow, as well as organic inclusions. Some fakes are more obvious, some are different types of tree resins, and some are very similar to the real thing. Many smaller amber cabochons are placed into sterling silver settings, commonly the art nouveau designs with vines and leaves to accent the organic origins of amber.
This final link shows an antique necklace that I have listed as faux amber, but it is one of the more ambiguous items, and requires additional research. It has the properties of real amber, with flora and fauna inclusions as well as an antique clasp. So this one I have to admit is still an enigma:
Another intriguing resin set, which I query as being copal, because it has what I consider to be organic features, and an inner glow. I have seen a fair bit of plastic jewellery over the years, to include a range of thermoset plastics, lucite, bakelite, celluloid, and sophisticated modern day resin jewellery etc. but have not come across plastic like this set before. So it too, really piques the curiosity, as far as resins are concerned.
Another intriguing necklace, which may or may not be black amber and requires more research:
https://www.quietwest.com/shop/jewelery/antique-black-amber-necklace-with-huge-beads-gradient-beads-near-clasp/
Another questionable blue amber pair of earrings are in the collection and left me scratching my head. They definitely have organic features, and could be from the Dominican where blue amber is sourced from. But, I cannot be sure, so these too, need more research. They are pretty cool, and the most beautiful shade of blue:
https://www.quietwest.com/shop/jewelery/blue-amber-like-earrings-with-organic-features/
Copyright Valerie J. Hayes and Quiet West (2023). Unauthorised use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this blog’s author/owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Valerie J. Hayes and Quiet West with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.