Description
This gorgeous wool swing coat by Walter Ma features extensive embroidery and trim on the front panels and cuffs. The flat front panels feature an overall pattern of embroidery, with rows of rickrack couching trim on the outer edges in a lighter coloured yarn, overlaid with contrasting embroidery, which is historically referred to as passementerie.
More information about passementerie can be found on the Leiden Textile Research Centre website.
The coat has a size 9 label, but is free fitting due to it’s design and sleeve style. It has no front closures. The bust, when the coat is laid flat with the front closed measures 44-45″. The sleeve length from the shoulder seam is 19″. The cuffs are 5.5″ wide. The embroidered panels down the front measure 7.5″ wide on each side. The bottom sweep measures 78″. The length from the centre back is 47″. From shoulder seam to shoulder seam it measures 19″. It has a kick pleat at the back, and slash pockets on the sides.
When I purchased the coat, the seller told me it was wool and cashmere, however it does not have any fabric labels that indicate what the blend is. It appears to be at least 90% wool. The colour is a russet toned brown. When you examine the fabric with a loupe it shows a mix of brown, orange, and yellow wool fibres, however the intricacies of these colours are not visible to the naked eye.
The front panels are a saffron colour, and the lining is an olive green acetate.
The overall condition is excellent. The lining has two very small flaws around 2-3mm.
Walter Ma is dubbed as China’s “first fashion design master” and is especially well know for his elaborate embellishments. He received “Artist of the Year in Fashion Design” Award in 1997. He claims to have focused his designs on the career woman. He is (or was) the Vice Chairman of Hong Kong Fashion Designers Association.
The calibre of design shown on this Walter Ma coat is rare and one of a kind. Although it is 1990’s during the peak of Walter Ma’s career, it is reminiscent of the 1960’s era when Hong Kong created dresses, and coats with elaborate needlework, beading, laid work, couching and other types of embroidery.
I have priced this coat high due to it’s rarity, wool, and exceptional trim, so it’s true value is not overlooked. However I am open to offers, hoping it can be enjoyed and appreciated for both its artistry and exceptional attention to detail.